The hutongs are a race against time. Every visit, another block has been replaced by glass towers. What remains is a maze of low grey walls, courtyard gates, and the smell of jiaozi from corner shops.
I focused on doorways and the way light falls in the narrow alleys—often only an hour of direct sun. The residents are used to cameras; a nod and a smile go further than stealth.
Best light: late afternoon, when the sun angles into the alleys. Winter is cold but the air is clear; summer brings haze and humidity.